Located approximately 48 kilometers from Hanoi, Tho Ha is an ancient village steeped in a pottery-making tradition that spans hundreds of years. Renowned for its high-quality products, Tho Ha has garnered a well-deserved reputation in the world of pottery craftsmanship. Beyond its artistic achievements, Tho Ha Pottery Village boasts a distinctive architectural landscape, bearing the cultural imprint of the Red River Delta region in Northern Vietnam.
Introduction to Tho Ha Pottery Village
Delving into the annals of time, Tho Ha Pottery Village emerges as a beacon of Vietnam’s ceramic heritage, tracing its roots back to the 12th century. As one of the oldest ceramic centers in the country, it serves as a cradle nurturing the artistry of pottery.
In its nascent years, Tho Ha transcended its status as a mere village, blossoming into a bustling trading port. Along the sinuous course of the Như Nguyệt River, boats gracefully transported the treasures of Tho Ha—meticulously crafted pottery—embarking on journeys that spanned various destinations.
What truly sets Tho Ha Pottery apart lies in its departure from conventional techniques. Here, the artisans eschew traditional glazes, opting for a miraculous, pliable clay. Fired to perfection, this clay metamorphoses into a natural glaze, endowing the pottery with unparalleled characteristics. The result is a product of remarkable durability, impervious to soil, and resonating with a drum-like cadence when touched. The pliability, a hallmark feature, ensures that whether nestled in the earth or submerged in water, the pottery steadfastly retains its original form.
By the 14th century, Tho Ha Pottery had become a paragon of excellence, earning widespread acclaim for its exceptional creations. This period witnessed not only the flourishing of the craft but also a significant improvement in the lives of the local community. The economic prosperity driven by the pottery trade allowed the denizens to erect grand architectural marvels—temples and pagodas—whose imposing structures still echo the historical legacy of Tho Ha to this very day.
Introduction to Tho Ha Pottery Village
Embarking on a journey through Tho Ha Pottery Village is not merely a visit; it’s an exploration of centuries-old artistry, innovation, and cultural richness. Each piece of Tho Ha Pottery encapsulates the spirit of a bygone era, inviting all to witness and appreciate the living history woven into these timeless creations. The intricate connection between Tho Ha pottery and the riverine trade routes speaks volumes about its significance in shaping both cultural and economic landscapes, leaving an indelible mark on Vietnam’s vibrant heritage.
Location of Tho Ha Pottery Village
Situated within the embrace of Vân Hà commune, Việt Yên district, Bắc Giang province, Tho Ha Pottery Village unfolds its story approximately 50 kilometers north of Hanoi. This village has etched its name in the annals of Vietnamese heritage, particularly renowned for its age-old pottery craft. Additionally, it has sustained its reputation for the production of traditional delicacies such as rice vermicelli and nem wrappers.
One distinctive feature that defines Tho Ha is its unique geographical setting. Surrounded by water on three sides and resembling an island, navigating beyond the village necessitates either a leisurely stroll or a boat ride. A visit to Tho Ha unveils a picturesque journey through the village’s intricate network of pathways and alleyways. Wherever water meets the land—be it along the walls, by the ponds, or beneath the roofs—you’ll find the thriving artistry of nem wrappers.
Entering the ancient dye of time that colors Tho Ha, visitors are greeted with the tranquil and poetic beauty of the rural landscape. The concluding stretch of Tho Ha Village reveals a familiar sight—the dance of flames by a traditional hearth. Here, nimble hands craft delicate nem wrappers. These oversized, golden-brown, crispy delights emit an irresistible aroma, a testament to the culinary heritage embedded within the heart of Tho Ha.
In essence, Tho Ha Pottery Village is not just a geographic location but a dynamic intersection of tradition, craftsmanship, and culinary artistry. Its geographical charm, with water as both barrier and bridge, serves as the backdrop for the unfolding of centuries-old practices, inviting visitors to witness the harmonious blend of culture and nature in this serene Vietnamese enclave.
Location of Tho Ha Pottery Village
Unveiling the rich history of Tho Ha Pottery Village
The historical journey of Tho Ha Pottery Village commences in the 12th century, establishing itself among the venerable triumvirate of ancient ceramic centers in Vietnam, alongside Phu Lang and Bat Trang.
As documented in the village’s genealogy and revealed through archaeological discoveries, Tho Ha emerges as a cradle for the pottery craft, evolving into a vibrant ceramic trading hub in the Kinh Bac region. The affluence generated by the pottery trade contributed to the creation of grand architectural landmarks, including communal houses, pagodas, and stately village gates, all testaments to the village’s cultural eminence.
The lore of Tho Ha is intricately woven with the narrative of its pottery patriarch, Dr. Dao Tri Tien, who, along with Hua Vinh Cao and Luu Phong Tu, served as envoys to the Northern Song dynasty during the late Ly dynasty. Encountering a tempestuous journey back home via Thieu Chau in Quang Dong province, they stumbled upon a renowned pottery kiln. Their visit led to a profound exchange of knowledge, with Dr. Dao Tri Tien imparting the craft of making deep red pottery to Tho Ha. Meanwhile, Hua Vinh Cao shared the art of crafting white pottery with Bat Trang, and Luu Phong Tu transmitted the skills for making yellow pottery to Phu Lang.
Traditionally, Tho Ha pottery craftsmen organized an annual ceremony venerating their pottery ancestors, honoring the trio for their pivotal roles in shaping the village’s artistic legacy.
The 1940s marked a golden era for Tho Ha’s pottery trade, witnessing robust growth and heightened acclaim for its exquisite creations.
However, the 1960s brought challenges as the village’s population burgeoned, and the spatial demands of pottery kilns led to environmental concerns. Responding to this, the state established the Gom Da Vang enterprise in the hills of Lat Village, 3 km north of Tho Ha. This move transformed all pottery craftsmen from Tho Ha into employees of the enterprise, receiving state salaries.
Unveiling the rich history of Tho Ha Pottery Village
Amidst the economic difficulties of the early 1980s, villagers pivoted to new professions, particularly rice noodle production and sago wine brewing. However, sago wine brewing faced prohibition during this period, compelling many workers to leave the Gom Da Vang enterprise and return to their roots in the traditional pottery trade.
By 1988, the advent of plastic products diminished the market for traditional pottery items, leading to the dissolution of the Gom Da Vang enterprise. This marked the poignant end of Tho Ha’s nearly 900-year-old pottery trade.
In 2005, Mr. Trinh Dac Tan, born into a family with ten generations of potters, emerged as a beacon of hope for Tho Ha’s fading pottery legacy. He opened a pottery kiln with the ardent goal of reviving the traditional craft. Despite numerous challenges, this restoration effort required the collaborative support of both the government and the local community, embodying a tale of resilience and renewal that continues to shape Tho Ha’s cultural identity.
Exploring Tho Ha Pottery Village
For those intending to embark on a journey to Tho Ha Pottery Village, here are some valuable tips to enhance your travel experience!
How to nagotiate to Tho Ha Pottery Village?
If you’re starting your journey from Hanoi, there are various transportation options to consider. Whether you prefer buses, motorcycles, or coaches, each mode has its convenience.
- Motorcycle: Departing from Hanoi, head north on National Highway 1 for approximately 31km. Upon reaching Bac Ninh city, take a left turn and travel an additional 3km to reach Dang Street. Follow the dyke along the Cau River for 1km to reach Van Ha ferry. The ferry ride costs 5,000 VND for passengers and vehicles and takes around 5-10 minutes.
- Bus: To reach Tho Ha Pottery Village by bus, take Bus No. 54 (Long Bien – Bac Ninh city) from Hanoi. Alight at the next bus stop after approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes. From there, take a taxi or motorbike taxi to Van Ha ferry, and you’ll arrive at Tho Ha Village.
Places of interest in Tho Ha Pottery Village
Tho Ha is also renowned for its ancient architecture, ranging from houses to village gates, and even the ancient wells, all constructed with fired bricks and unglazed ceramics. Particularly noteworthy is the presence of an ancient revered temple and a grand communal house – masterpieces of traditional Vietnamese architecture. Therefore, don’t missing any opportunity to visits these materpieces.
Tho Ha Temple
Nestled in the heart of Kinh Bac, Tho Ha Temple stands as a beacon of Vietnamese cultural and artistic heritage, boasting intricate woodcarvings and earning the prestigious designation of a National-level Architectural and Artistic Heritage Site. Constructed in 1692 under the patronage of King Le Hy Tong, this temple is a testament to the skilled craftsmanship and rich cultural tapestry of the Vietnamese people.
Many historical researchers assert that “Tho Ha Communal House is the blossom of Vietnamese carving art.” Acknowledging its unique and representative values, in December 2020, the entrance gate of Tho Ha Communal House was officially recognized as a National Treasure by the Prime Minister of Vietnam. Mr. Nguyen Dang Thuong, the custodian of Tho Ha Communal House, states, “In 1692, during the reign of King Le Hy Tong, Tho Ha Communal House was constructed as a unique architectural masterpiece. The temple worships the Village Guardian Deity, also known as Thái Thượng Lão Quân (or Lão Dam, Lão Tu), and the ancestral potter, Dr. Dao Tri Tien.”
Exploring Tho Ha Pottery Village
Being the second oldest communal house in Bac Giang after Lỗ Hạnh Communal House (in Dong Lo, Hiep Hoa district), Tho Ha Communal House not only signifies a spiritual space but also showcases cultural elements through its carved motifs, depicting the Four Supernatural Creatures, Four Seasons, ornate flowers, birds, beasts, and human figures. Artifacts within Tho Ha Communal House preserve significant artistic and cultural-historical values. Among them, the carved door stands out as a masterpiece, representing the pinnacle of wood carving art during the Le-Trinh dynasty (17th-18th centuries).
The “Peerless Treasure” unmatched anywhere else is the Door of Tho Ha Communal House. Crafted in the 13th year of Chinh Hoa (1692) by local elders, officials, and villagers contributing their virtuous deeds, the door serves the dual purpose of demarcating the sacred space and creating a focal point of reverence in front of the main hall. Executed during the zenith of wood carving art development, the door combines various techniques like embossing, low-relief carving, and perforation, creating multiple layers and dimensions on a single wooden block. Furthermore, intricate gold lacquer enhances its aesthetics, reflecting the innovative mindset of ancient folk artists, resulting in a grand yet refined masterpiece.
The door is divided into three layers. The first layer, measured from the top down, spans from 4m to 4.9m in height. This layer, with a height of 0.9m and a width of 0.3m, features two horizontal layers with interwoven cloud patterns, while vertical motifs on both sides of each compartment depict dragons in a coiled posture, facing the center.
The second layer, following the upper dragon carvings, consists of raised ridges surrounding a low-relief pattern resembling lotus petals and cloud veins. Despite the recurrent dragon motifs, each carving appears unique, lively, and dynamic. Interspersed between dragon carvings are low-relief depictions of the Four Auspicious Plants (pine, bamboo, plum, and apricot), creating a balanced yet striking composition. Notably, the dragon and puzzle carvings showcase an artistic style reminiscent of the Nguyen dynasty (19th century), a testament to the skillfulness of Tho Ha artisans, showcasing exquisite craftsmanship.
The final layer, positioned below 2.2m to the ground, covering an area 4.3m wide, forms the forbidden door border. This border features playful dragon carvings with smiling mythical creatures and a depiction of a bare-chested person holding a pair of ivory tusks. The dragon heads on the door are adorned with Tho Ha ancient pottery, exemplifying the skilled hands of Tho Ha craftsmen.
In addition to the intricate wood carvings, folk artisans seamlessly incorporated pottery details into the door, showcasing the artistry of ancient Tho Ha pottery—one of the nation’s renowned ceramic centers with a rich history dating back to the 17th-18th centuries. The harmonious blend of wood and pottery in the Tho Ha Communal House door is truly unique.
After 330 years of history, the carved motifs remain remarkably intact, preserved by Tho Ha residents with the utmost sanctity and respect, passed down through generations. Every year on the 15th day of the first lunar month and the 20th day of the eighth lunar month, villagers bring offerings to Tu Chi to express their reverence for their ancestors. Tho Ha Communal House’s carved door, recognized as a National Treasure, represents a harmonious blend of artistic mastery, cultural richness, and historical significance, encapsulating the spirit of the local community across centuries.
Bo Da Pagoda
Spanning approximately 2 kilometers, the Bo Da Mountain range envelops the two villages of Tien Lat Thuong and Tien Lat Ha in the Tien Son commune, Viet Yen district, Bac Giang province. Amidst the serene ambiance created by a thousand towering pine trees lies an ancient treasure trove: Bo Da Pagoda.
For over a millennium, the Bo Da Pagoda complex, which includes Tuc An Temple, the Tower Garden, Tam Duc Temple, Cao Temple, and the Ancestral Pond, has been a revered pilgrimage site for travelers from across the country.
The saying “Bac Bo Da, Nam Huong Tich” has resonated through the centuries, emphasizing Bo Da Pagoda’s status as one of the two major monastic centers in Northern Vietnam.
Bo Da Pagoda is exceptional not only for its characteristic features common in ancient temples of Kinh Bac but also for harboring ancient tales steeped in mythical history.
Legend has it that Bo Da Pagoda dates back to the Ly Dynasty, around the 11th century, and underwent significant expansion during the reign of King Le Du Tong (1720-1729). Its unique architectural style, a blend of both domestic and foreign influences, imparts a sense of tranquility and spirituality.
The pagoda’s structures showcase a unique architectural style known as “chinh tuong,” characterized by warmth in winter and coolness in summer. Throughout the pagoda’s premises, stone walls made from local Boda mountain soil are adorned with decorative ceramic pieces from the renowned Tho Ha Village, creating a picturesque blend of historical charm and natural aging.
In the spring of 2017, the Bo Da Festival was officially recognized as a national intangible cultural heritage by the Ministry of Culture, Sports, and Tourism. Held from the 15th to the 18th day of the second lunar month, this festival commemorates the founding of the pagoda and is marked by vibrant traditional performances, enhancing the cultural vibrancy of the Bo Da region.
Bo Da Pagoda
Bo Da Pagoda houses nearly 2000 wooden blocks, each dating back to the reign of King Le Hien Tong, under the Canh Hung era (1740 – 1786). These wooden blocks have aged gracefully over the years, enriching the pagoda’s cultural treasury. The intricately carved scripts on these wooden blocks, conveying profound Buddhist teachings, have stood the test of time, retaining their exquisite clarity.
In recognition of its cultural significance, Bo Da Pagoda’s wooden blocks were designated a national treasure in the winter of 2017. Few pagodas in Vietnam can transport visitors to such an authentic architectural and cultural experience as Bo Da does. Not only are these ancient features found in the wooden blocks, but the earth walls and residential structures are also crafted using traditional techniques.
With values rooted in the past, Bo Da Pagoda was officially designated a national relic in 1992. By 2016, it received the special distinction of a national historical and architectural artistic relic.
The wooden blocks at the pagoda were also honored as the oldest set of Buddhist scripture woodblocks in Vietnam. In 2017, the World Record Association confirmed that Bo Da Pagoda’s set of woodblocks is the oldest in the world, carved on wooden planks, belonging to the Lam Te Zen sect.
Furthermore, the tower garden at Bo Da Pagoda was recognized as the oldest and largest tower garden in Vietnam. Notably, the banyan and peepal trees within the pagoda’s grounds have been acknowledged by the Vietnam Association for Conservation of Nature and Environment as Vietnam’s Heritage Trees.
Bo Da Pagoda, with its multifaceted cultural assets, stands as a testament to the rich cultural, artistic, and historical traditions of the Vietnamese people. These cultural legacies serve as a spiritual anchor for each visitor, offering a serene sanctuary where one can reconnect with the roots of tranquility. The combination of ancient wisdom, architectural marvels, and natural beauty makes Bo Da Pagoda a living heritage, inviting visitors to step back in time and embrace the profound cultural tapestry of Kinh Bac.
Ba Chua Kho Temple
Nestled atop Kho Mountain in Co Me Hamlet, Vu Ninh Ward, Bac Ninh City, Bac Ninh Province, the Ba Chua Kho Temple stands as a testament to ancient architectural craftsmanship. The temple is very near to the route leading to Tho Ha Pottery Village. Built in the traditional style, the temple boasts intricate carvings, marking its significance as a vital historical site within the Cổ Mễ region, acknowledged by the state as part of the complex of recognized cultural relics, including temples, pagodas, and shrines. Beyond its historical value, Ba Chua Kho holds spiritual importance, drawing pilgrims from all corners of the country during annual festivals.
According to folklore, Ba Chua Kho was a woman from Qua Cam village, renowned for her extraordinary beauty and organizational skills in managing food production and national reserves following the victory at Nhu Nguyet (1076), led by General Ly Thuong Kiet. Ba Chua Kho contributed significantly to resettling people in Qua Cam, Co Me, and Thuong Dong, assisting them in cultivating agricultural lands.
Later, under the Ly Dynasty, Ba Chua Kho became the queen, supporting the king in governing the country and preserving national reserves. Unfortunately, she was assassinated while distributing provisions to aid her people. Recognizing her benevolence, the king posthumously honored her as Phuc Than. Grateful for her generosity, the people of Co Me established the Ba Chua Kho Temple at the original grain repository on Kho Mountain.
In 1989, the state officially recognized Ba Chua Kho as a national cultural monument, sparking a surge in the temple’s religious significance. The cultural and spiritual activities have since grown, with an increasing number of visitors making pilgrimages to the temple, captivated by the history and reverence associated with the Mother Goddess.
During the Tran Dynasty, the temple covered an area of around 10,000 square meters. However, due to war, it has been reduced to just over 1700 square meters. Destroyed by French colonial forces, the temple underwent reconstruction and restoration in 1998, preserving its ancient architectural features, including delicate floral patterns and sophisticated carvings. The war had devastated the Three-Gate entrance, leaving only traces of four large green stones.
Architectural elements of the temple exhibit meticulous craftsmanship, featuring symbolic figures such as lions, phoenixes, clouds, and koi transforming into dragons. Adjacent to the main hall are two well-preserved architectural relics dating back to the late 19th century – the tả mạc and hữu mạc buildings. Designed with sloping roofs supported by square pillars, these structures showcase intricate decorations of leaves, dragons, and clouds. The area behind the tả mạc building serves as a location to burn gold paper offerings during annual ceremonies honoring Ba Chua Kho.
Surrounding the temple and its pond, lush greenery enhances the feng shui of the surroundings. A miniature mountain and waterfall within the pond create a picturesque landscape. Additionally, within the temple grounds, remnants such as the prayer platform and grassy areas are said to be sites where Ba Chua Kho once allowed horses to graze.
Ba Chua Kho Temple
Every year, although the main day of the Ba Chua Kho Festival in Bac Ninh falls on the 14th day of the Lunar New Year, the festive atmosphere begins early in the month of January, lasting from the eve of the Lunar New Year onward. People from all walks of life flock to the temple, not only to seek blessings and prosperity but also to engage in the unique tradition of “borrowing capital” from Bo Da Chua Kho, hoping for a financially abundant year ahead. This borrowing ritual has deep roots in ancient myths and is reinforced by the belief that, despite enduring fierce battles, the temple has stood firm.
The borrowing process is well-defined, with individuals noting the amount borrowed, the purpose, and the duration for repayment. Some even promise a return of three or tenfold, emphasizing the commitment to honoring their vows, reflecting the principle that promises made at Ba Chua Kho must be fulfilled, regardless of one’s financial success. This tradition culminates in a gratitude ceremony at the end of the year.
During the festival, the area surrounding the temple is a bustling hub with hundreds of shops selling ritual offerings, attracting a constant stream of people. Pilgrims purchase offerings based on personal preferences, ranging from simple incense and flowers with a few banknotes to elaborate displays such as a plate of sticky rice with a carved chicken, or a full tray of five fruits—all centered around heartfelt prayers.
Tips for Experiencing the Ba Chua Kho Festival:
- Choosing Ritual Offerings: The focus is on sincerity rather than extravagance. Offerings typically include incense, tea, fruits, and symbolic items for worshiping Buddha and Bodhisattvas.
- Vegetarian Offerings: For those who prefer vegetarian offerings, choosing items like imitation meat shaped as chicken, pork, or sausages is recommended.
- Living Offerings: It is strictly advised not to include living offerings such as eggs, rice, salt, or meat in the ritual, especially at the Ngũ Hổ, Bạch xà, Thanh xà altars.
- Regional Vegetarian Dishes: Opt for vegetarian dishes that represent Vietnamese cuisine, avoiding crab, snails, eel, chili, and lime. If using colored sticky rice, it falls under this category.
- Honoring Ancestors: Items like mirrors, combs, or toys for children are part of honoring ancestors and deities.
After completing the Rituals:
After concluding the offering rituals, visitors have the opportunity to explore the scenic surroundings of Ba Chua Kho Temple. It is customary to wait until the incense sticks have burned for a week before visiting different altars. After the week, pilgrims can add more incense sticks or continue the ritual for another week. Once completed, they bow three times before each altar and remove the ritual objects to be gold-plated for preservation.
Before leaving the temple, the process of lowering the offerings involves starting from the outer altars and progressing toward the main altar. Items such as mirrors and combs on the altars dedicated to Cô and Cậu can either be left as they are or arranged on a separate altar, ensuring they remain undisturbed.
Embraced by tradition, the Ba Chua Kho Festival not only serves as a time for spiritual reflection but also as a vibrant celebration that encapsulates the cultural and religious heritage of the region.
Unique cuisine in Tho Ha Pottery Village
Unique cuisine in Tho Ha Pottery Village
While Tho Ha Ceramic Village is renowned for its distinctive traditional pottery, its culinary scene might not be as prominent. The local cuisine mainly revolves around the well-known “banh da” (rice cracker). However, for those seeking a diverse and flavorful culinary experience, venturing into the city center and exploring renowned eateries is advisable:
- “Specialty Eel” Located at 52 Nguyen Van Man, Bac Giang City, Sau Restaurant specializes in dishes made from local eels. The eel meat is known for its aromatic and delicious qualities. The enticing menu offers a variety of eel dishes, such as eel noodles, sautéed eel, and eel spring rolls.
- “Fish Noodle at Cau Chui” Situated in the alley 33A Vuong Van Tra, Bac Giang City, Cau Chui is a must-visit for those craving delectable fish and rib noodles in Bac Giang. The main ingredient for this dish is fish bones, enhancing the broth’s richness. Enjoying fish noodles with sour bamboo shoots from Lang Son adds an extra layer of enticing flavors.
- ” Phở cổ xưa” at Hoang Van Thu Found at lots 14-15 Hoang Van Thu, Bac Giang City, the “Phở cổ xưa” offers a fulfilling bowl with generous portions of beef and soft rice noodles, making it easy to savor. Priced at around 25,000 VND per bowl, this is a delicious and affordable choice.
Apart from these recommendations, Bac Giang boasts a variety of local specialties for you to savor, including the famous Mỹ Độ sweet soup, grilled chicken, and crispy rice cakes.
The evocative charm of Tho Ha lies not only in the intricate artistry of its pottery but also in the imposing presence of its communal spaces. The village has gracefully embraced its historical legacy, adorned with structures that exude a sense of ancient sophistication and allure.
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